Humla is a land of contrasts and one of the most culturally fascinating places in all of Nepal. From the lush banks of the Karnali river to the arid plains that expand into Tibet, this remote part of the Himalayas catches the eye with every bend of the trail. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot the dusky blue sheep leaping up through the gigantic rockscapes, and perhaps even the elusive snow leopard. A trek in Humla offers a cultural tapestry of traditional Hindu and Buddhist cultures combined with the ancient practice of Shamanism. From the district capital of Simikot, spread across a ridge at 2900m, this section of the Great Himalaya Trails threads along towering green cliffs above the roaring Karnali river. You’ll pass clusters of flat-roofed mud houses, encountering the Hindu Thakuri – women wearing heavy gold and silver jewelry, and men leading flocks of long-haired goats up and down the muddy trail to Tibet. After the village of Kermi, the cultural landscape changes to Tibetan Buddhism, influenced by the near-by border. Tourists are few and far between and those you meet will most likely be headed to the border town of Hilsa, a gateway to Mount Kailash in Tibet. From Hilsa you can continue towards Mount Kailash (with appropriate visas for Tibet) or return to Simikot having explored this remote corner of north western Nepal